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Cosmetics, the consumer, the factory worker and the occupational physician. Suggestions concerning ways to determine untoward dermatologic effects of cosmetics.

Methods for investigating contact eczematous patients and for measuring the sensitizing potential of various substances are well known and in general, sufficiently effective. This is not true for irritant dermatitis, or for possible (skin) irritant substances; moreover, cosmetics commonly do not contain acutely harmful ingredients. The use of various instrumental measurements (insensible H2O loss, CO2 release, electrical impedance, sweat rate) as indicators of the irritant potentials of substances is advocated. At the same time it is suggested that the factory physician actively investigate the workers in his factory, since these workers are exposed to known substances in known concentrations and combinations, possibly for extensive periods. This may prove to be part of a new role for him. A cosmetic may be one of several factors increasing impairment and only beyond a certain limit may this result in overt disease. Below that limit the health reserve is only partially depleted. Whether this is harmful to a person depends on other stresses, such as medicaments, work materials, other cosmetics and environmental chemicals. The effect of these must also be quantified. A model of these cumulative stresses and reactions is presented and discussed.

Cosmetics

United States cosmetic ingredient labeling.

United States federal regulations require ingredient listing on cosmetics labeled after November 30, 1976. Standardized ingredient nomenclature from a reference text will be utilized to minimize confusion which might arise if various synonyms for chemical names were used. This new information on cosmetics labeling will assist physicians in the diagnosis of cosmetic-related dermatoses. It should facilitate the patch testing procedure by enabling the dermatologist to focus attention on suspect ingredients early in the evaluation. Once the identify of offending ingredients in a cosmetic has been determined for a particular patient, the individual will have the opportunity to avoid those ingredients and related ingredients in future purchases of cosmetics.

Cosmetics

Euxyl K 400: a new sensitizer in cosmetics.

Euxyl K 400 is a preservative for cosmetics and toiletries containing 2 active ingredients, 1,2-dibromo-2,4-dicyanobutan and 2-phenoxyethanol. 2057 consecutive patients with contact dermatitis were patch tested with Euxyl K 400 2.5% pet. and ethanol. A positive patch test occurred in 24 patients (1.2%). The source of sensitization was traced in 8 patients to their cosmetics. Both leave-on and rinse-off products were responsible. Further patch tests with Euxyl K 400 0.5% pet. and phenoxyethanol 5% pet. were performed in 11 patients. A positive patch test to phenoxyethanol was detected in 1 of them. Only 3 patients showed a mild reaction to Euxyl K 400 0.5%. A provocative use test with a lotion preserved with Euxyl K 400 0.1% was positive in 5 of these 11 patients. Patients with Euxyl K 400 sensitivity showed a high prevalence of positive patch tests to other common ingredients of cosmetics. Since the use of Euxyl K 400 in cosmetic products is rapidly increasing, it should be included in the patch test series for patients with suspected cosmetic allergy.

Adolescent

Photoprotective effects of sunscreens in cosmetics on sunburn and Langerhans cell photodamage.

It has become common practice to add sunscreening agents of variable potency to cosmetics to protect against the adverse effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure. The purpose of this study was to determine whether cosmetic preparations containing sunscreening agents protected against the adverse effects of acute UV radiation exposure and, if so, to identify the components responsible for the photoprotective effects. Pretreatment of skin with one such cosmetic product provided complete protection against UV-induced erythema, sunburn cell formation and Langerhans cell damage in volunteers, skin types II and III, whose skin was exposed to a 1.5 minimal erythema dose daily for 4 consecutive days. When individual components of the cosmetic preparation were analyzed for their photoprotective activities, it was found that both the cinnamate and benzophenone sunscreen combination and an extract of baker's yeast present in the preparation had photoprotective properties. These studies indicate that incorporation of photoprotective agents into cosmetic preparations provides a beneficial function and should therefore be encouraged.

Adolescent

Factors affecting cosmetic outcome in breast-conserving cancer treatment--objective quantitative assessment.

A battery of objective measurements of cosmetic outcome was performed on 114 patients who had been treated by breast-preservation techniques for breast cancer. Cosmetic breast retraction, as determined by Breast Retraction Assessment (BRA) measurements, was significantly greater in patients who underwent extensive primary tumor resection, were more than 60 years old, weighed more than 150 lbs, or had a primary tumor in an upper breast quadrant. While use of a local RT boost, per se, was not a significant factor, those patients with high dose and/or large volume local boosts more frequently had marked retraction. Breast telangiectasia and depigmentation (T/D) was related to use of a local RT boost, patient age greater than 60 years, and use of separate nodal RT fields. Breast T/D was significantly more frequent with use of electron beam local RT boost which delivered a boost skin dose exceeding 1600 cGy. Objective quantitative assessments, such as BRA and T/D area measurements, provide data to determine factors related to each type of cosmetic change and thus provide guidelines for optimizing cosmetic outcome. Limiting the extent of primary tumor resection may minimize the amount of breast retraction. Omitting the local RT boost, particularly large volume, high dose boosts, may reduce the frequency of marked cosmetic retraction and skin T/D.

Adult

Cosmetic and functional outcomes of breast conserving treatment for early stage breast cancer. 2. Relationship with psychosocial functioning.

The relationship between cosmetic and functional results of breast conserving therapy and psychosocial functioning was examined in a sample of 76 patients with early stage breast cancer, who received treatment between 1975 and 1985. The patients were interviewed at their homes regarding breast cosmesis, arm functioning and psychosocial health, and subsequently attended the hospital for independent assessment of cosmetic and functional outcomes by clinical observers. High levels of psychological distress, disturbance of body image, and decreased sexual functioning were noted in approximately one-quarter of the study sample. About half of the patients expressed heightened concern with disease recurrence and their future health. Psychosocial problems were only modestly associated with treatment-related cosmetic and functional outcomes, as determined by clinical ratings and objective assessments. The patients' own ratings of breast cosmesis and arm functioning exhibited somewhat higher correlations with self-reported psychosocial functioning. In particular, a significant association was noted between the patients' ratings of overall cosmesis and arm edema and their body image (r = 0.48 and r = 0.43, respectively). The association between cosmetic and functional results and self-reported psychosocial health was strongest among those patients younger in age and treated longer ago. These findings suggest that, in order to evaluate the impact of breast conserving therapy on the patients' quality of life, the patients' own assessments of cosmetic and functional outcomes should be used as a primary source of information.

Adult

[Effect of surgical procedure and adjuvant therapy on cosmetic results after breast conserving therapy in breast cancer].

A total of 207 patients undergoing breast conserving therapy (BCT, excision of tumour with clear margins, radiotherapy, sequential chemotherapy for node-positive patients) were clinically evaluated after a median follow-up of 11 months (min 2/max 22). The aim of the study was to analyse the impact of various individual factors, surgical techniques and adjuvant therapies on the cosmetic result. In 85.7% of all cases the objective outcome was satisfactory (very good: 48.8%, good: 36.9%) and in 14.3% unsatisfactory (fair: 13%, poor: 1.3%). Objective cosmetic results were rated significantly better by the patients (p = 0.01), in cases with biopsy weights of greater than 100 grms. (large/hyperplastic breast, p = 0.01), non-reconstructed mammary glands (simply closure of subcutis and skin, p = 0.01), non suction drainage of the breast (p - 0.04) and normal healing of the wound (p = 0.01). There was a trend towards better cosmetic results in the premenopause in patients with a tumour localised in the upper outer quadrant, in cases of a curvilinear as compared to a radial incision (upper/outer quadrant) and in small or average-sized breasts with biopsy weights of less than 50 grms. Cosmetic results were unaffected by a "two-step" procedure, standardised postoperative radiotherapy (45-55 Gy) and by sequential chemotherapy (3x CHT/radiotherapy/3x CHT). Unsatisfactory cosmetic short-term results should primarily be regarded as a surgical complication of BCT. Results can be improved by taking into consideration the importance of the relation of breast/biopsy-weight as well as standardising the operative procedure (curvilinear incision, closure of subcutis and skin, drainage without suction, perioperative antibiotic prophylaxis).

Adult

Pseudomonas corneal ulcer. The causative role of contaminated eye cosmetics.

The clinical significance of contaminated ocular cosmetics is illustrated by the case of a 47-year-old woman in whom a Pseudomonas corneal ulcer developed immediately after she sustained minor corneal trauma with a mascara applicator. Pseudomonas aeruginosa was cultured from the corneal ulcer and the mascara. In addition to the causative role in acute corneal ulcers, contaminated eye cosmetics contribute to chronic external eye infections. Retail eye cosmetics are typically free of contamination when purchased. The inoculation of the cosmetic occurs during normal use.

Anti-Bacterial Agents

Non-comedogenic cosmetics.

The need for a "comedogenic-free" cosmetic for acne patients led to this study using the only available mode, the rabbit. To facilitate the formulation of this benign cover-up, a range of cosmetics and ingredients was tested. Many cosmetics, fractions, and modifications of lanolins were comedogenic, as were emulsifiers such as butyl sterate, isopropyl myristate and sodium lauryl sulfate. From this data we incorporated non-comedogenic, into an acceptable cosmetic formulation for patients. The use of this formulation in susceptible acne-prone women reduced the rate of "acne cosmetica" in our clinic patients from 25% to less than 5%. We were unable to confirm a recent study suggesting that sulfur was a potent acnegen.

Acne Vulgaris

[Replacement of Kathon CG by Euxyl K 400 in cosmetics; from the frying pan into the fire?].

The recent negative publicity on the cosmetics preservative Kathon CG has made many cosmetic manufacturers look for safer alternatives. The most popular substitute appears to be Euxyl K 400, containing phenoxyethanol and methyldibromoglutaronitrile. Unfortunately, this preservative also induces allergic reactions to cosmetics and (at least in the Netherlands) to 'moist toilet paper'. Therefore, in cases of apparent reactions to cosmetics and of eczema ani, allergy to methyldibromoglutaronitrile should be suspected. Testing the finished products often results in false-negative reactions, and consequently the allergen (suggested concentration 0.05% in petrolatum) should preferably be tested separately.

Cosmetics

Cosmetics and contact dermatitis.

A complete work-up of most patients with cosmetic allergies can be performed satisfactorily in a dermatologist's office without expensive equipment. After taking a complete history and performing a thorough examination, a biopsy is seldom required. Examine all the patient's cosmetics, eliminate the strong irritants, and proceed with product patch testing. Patch testing with the AAD allergen test tray at the same time is frequently helpful. When results are doubtful or do not fit with the information obtained from the history and examination, supplemental provocative use tests often clarify what information is clinically relevant. Patch testing with ingredients that dermatologists have obtained from cosmetic manufacturers or other sources often provides a helpful, definitive answer for the patient. Always provide the patient with information about cross-reactions and the official name of the allergen as it will appear on a cosmetic label to prevent recurrences.

Cosmetics

[Microorganisms in drugs and cosmetics - occurrence, harms and consequences in hygienic manufacturing (author's transl)].

The quantity of pharmaceutical and cosmetic products with different composition and the diversity of contaminating microorganisms set up special problems for each product with its specific field of application. It is not exact to generalize the hazard of contaminating microorganisms to product cathegories. Some product cathegories however are more imperilled to be contaminated with microorganisms and they are more hazardous than other ones. The most important component of the living matter is water that decides on growth, multiplication and survival of microorganisms in drugs and cosmetics. Products with a high content of available water are the most problematic ones. The consequences of survival and multiplication of microorganisms in relation to metabolic activity, pathogenicity and route of administration can be harmless or fatal. The nutritive wants of many microorganisms are very small, even simple salt solutions do not exclude microbial growth. There scarcely exist substrates not used as energy source by any microorganism and so it does not wonder that desinfectants are also used. Added preservatives may be absorbed or inactivated by suspended anorganic components, swelling agents, solubilizers etc., the containers or its closing. In the water phase of emulsions, in which under special conditions smaller amounts of the preservative are available, microorganisms sometimes can multiply. Skin care products neither belonging to pharmaceuticals nor to cosmetics present special clinical problems. Many times creams and lotions contain ingredients metabolized by microorganisms. Ointments and oils can be overgrown only by highly specialized organisms but if there is condensed water as a film at boundary surfaces much more microorganism species can grow. When using cosmetics it must be considered that parts of them will get into the eye. The eye is really endangered by Pseudomonads, which can according to the composition multiply in shampoos and whose contact to the eye can not be excluded. Syrups and solutions contain sugar concentrations, which suppress growth of most microorganisms except osmotolerant germs. Because of their low water content powders normally are protected against microbial growth but they should be free from clostridial spores for a mixture of powder and sweat is a good nutrient medium to Clostridia and fungi. Powders for surgical use must be sterile. Tablets and dragees do not allow microbial multiplication because of their low water activity. Under bad storage conditions a local increase of water content may permit microbial growth at the surface, especially in hygroscopicity. Fortunately there is seen a trend of not using multi-dose-containers for injections because of the high risk of contamination. It is to develop single-dose-containers also for other groups of preparations especially for eye-preparations. Many products microbiologically unobjectionable produced are contaminated in use, they contain the spectrum of microorganisms of the area of application...

Bacteria