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Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studies.

S R Pinnell·H Yang·M Omar·N Monteiro-Riviere·H V DeBuys·L C Walker·Y Wang·M Levine
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Abstract

BACKGROUND: Reactive oxygen species generated by ultraviolet light result in photocarcinogenic and photoaging changes in the skin. Antioxidants protect skin from these insults. OBJECTIVE: This study defines formulation characteristics for delivering L-ascorbic acid into the skin to supplement the skin's natural antioxidant reservoir. METHODS: L-ascorbic acid or its derivatives were applied to pig skin. Skin levels of L-ascorbic acid were measured to determine percutaneous delivery. RESULTS: L-ascorbic acid must be formulated at pH levels less than 3.5 to enter the skin. Maximal concentration for optimal percutaneous absorption was 20%. Tissue levels were saturated after three daily applications; the half-life of tissue disappearance was about 4 days. Derivatives of ascorbic acid including magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl-6-palmitate, and dehydroascorbic acid did not increase skin levels of L-ascorbic acid. CONCLUSIONS: Delivery of topical L-ascorbic acid into the skin is critically dependent on formulation characteristics.

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Administration, CutaneousAnimalsAntioxidantsAscorbic AcidDehydroascorbic AcidHydrogen-Ion ConcentrationSkinSkin AbsorptionSunscreening AgentsSwineJournal Article

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S R Pinnell, H Yang, M Omar, N Monteiro-Riviere, H V DeBuys, L C Walker, Y Wang, M Levine. 2001. Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studies.. https://doi.org/10.1046/j.1524-4725.2001.00264.x

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